Ichiban Boshi

In the ramen is a metaphor for life school of restauranting, there are no shortcuts. Good ramen, broth stewed slowly over days to extract all the flavour, is a lesson in patience. So it is, taking a number and waiting for your turn in this booking-averse local institution is a lesson in patience, and ramen. How zen.

Two agonising re-reads of my menu under the undoubtedly judgemental eye of the waiter, I settle on Negi ramen, leaving Aburi-Chasu to company. Add a side of Karaage though because I dont have to explain myself to you. Truly, such god-given golden morsels, tender and juicy innards enrobed in a shatteringly crisp crust, kewpie mayo soothing the hint of mirin-miso-marinade in the flesh. And this before the real reason we’re all here. Rich and warming broth, perfectly al-katame noodles, hosting that signature array of toppings, this time bamboo, sweet-corn, cha-siu and kombu. Not to be outdone, company’s generously-portioned lightly-charred hunks of blow-torched pork-belly lending a pleasing smoky aroma to that stock, paired with a simpler selection of kombu and spring-onion. Definite success this evening.